Preserving the Past – Adding a Sleeve to Great-Grandmother’s Wedding Band

Precious metals are recycled time and again. When a jewelry piece is melted down, the material value remains but the history attached to the piece is lost forever. Sometimes retaining the sentimental value is more important than gaining the value of the raw materials. Continue reading

Easing into Green

When you sell products mined from the earth, it’s not always easy to keep your hands clean on environmental issues. Some jewelers have already found their green grooves, but for others, even simple steps can go a long way.

By Michelle Graff – May 22, 2008 – New York – From housewares to automotives, industries that paid little mind to environmental issues in the past are now moving into greener pastures—and the jewelry industry is no exception.

Since so many of its products come straight from the earth, adopting practices that protect the planet is perhaps even more important in the jewelry trade than in any other.
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Gold Goes Green

Special Advertising Supplement to Modern Jeweler
by Larry Fell

In 2008, green is the word. We’re buying more hybrids and fewer Hummers. We’re reducing, reusing, recycling, and composting. We’re drinking fair trade coffee and organic microbrews. Forget paper or plastic. Supermarkets are BYOB (Bring Your Own Bag).

Nearly every industry has been hit by green fever. The jewelry industry is no exception. Customers want to know where their precious metals come from and want to be reassured that the beautiful jewelry they love has caused no harm to the environment or to any workers involved in producing them. As always, customers want to wear jewelry that makes them look and feel good. That includes easing their conscience. They want their jewelry to be, in a word, green.
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Making a Difference From Mine to Market

 Marc Choyt of Reflective Images, Santa Fe, New Mexico, a jewelry retailer and manufacturer of designer jewelry, attended the first Madison Dialogue Ethical Jewelry Summit on October 25 and 26, 2007, at the World Bank in Washington, D.C. Choyt is the author of a blog on fair trade issues at He reports here on his experiences at the summit and the first steps toward fair trade gems, precious metals, and jewelry.

Shamsa Dawani shows me a stone paper of brilliant red garnets. They aren’t just pretty—as small as they may be, they represent a new future for our industry. It’s the second day of the Madison Dialogue Ethical Jewelry Summit at the World Bank in Washington, D.C. This handful of garnets for sale is a reminder of why a hundred people from all over the world have gathered at this conference to discuss the ethical issues of sourcing.

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The Open Source Initiative

Interview with Mike Angenent on issues with traceable melee diamonds and sapphires from Madagascar

MC: First, explain how you got involved in “Open Source.” What’s your personal background and what was the inspiration behind the project?

MA: Well, I am a goldsmith, gemologist, diamantair by profession and was always fascinated by the fact that you could trace a gemstone by its inclusions. 3 phase for Colombian emeralds, etc. I realized that my customers also liked to know this and where fascinated by the stories behind the jewellery piece, the whole process of how to make an exclusive piece of jewellery and the story about the gems and the diamonds.
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A Small Success Model for Gem Trade in Africa

Guy Clutterbuck, who was recently featured in the GIA Winter Loop Magazine, has been sourcing gemstones in Africa and around the world for decades. His relationships with small scale miners, based on trust, are highly unusual and
stand in contrast to the generally toxic relationship between the small scale miners and their typical buyer.

Read more about his approach in this exclusive interview, which I conducted after the Tucson Gem Show this past February. Full disclosure: I have been purchasing gems from Guy for about fifteen years. -Marc Choyt, Publisher,

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Sourcing Ethically Mined and Cut Diamonds

Everyone involved in profiting from diamonds, from NGOs who raise the blood diamond issue to their donors, DeBeers, to the average jeweler, markets to a target audience. In the retail sector, issues of quality and price are in the forefront and information on the ―4 Cs is easily available.
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Ethical Jewelry Issues: Introduction

Jewelry marketing is nearly always targeted to appeal to your emotions. But the supply chain that produces your piece, from mine to market, is driven by an entirely different set of values. Precious metal, gem stones and manufacturing are highly commoditized, just like oil or lumber.

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The Real Price of Gold

from National Geographic Magazine

Like many of his Inca ancestors, Juan Apaza is possessed by gold. Descending into an icy tunnel 17,000 feet up in the Peruvian Andes, the 44-year-old miner stuffs a wad of coca leaves into his mouth to brace himself for the inevitable hunger and fatigue. For 30 days each month Apaza toils, without pay, deep inside this mine dug down under a glacier above the world’s highest town, La Rinconada. For 30 days he faces the dangers that have killed many of his fellow miners—explosives, toxic gases, tunnel collapses—to extract the gold that the world demands. Apaza does all this, without pay, so that he can make it to today, the 31st day, when he and his fellow miners are given a single shift, four hours or maybe a little more, to haul out and keep as much rock as their weary shoulders can bear. Under the ancient lottery system that still prevails in the high Andes, known as the cachorreo, this is what passes for a paycheck: a sack of rocks that may contain a small fortune in gold or, far more often, very little at all.

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