Hand-Forged Ginkgo Fan Earrings

Before embarking on this project, let me give you a little background on the evolution of this design. I originally used the forging hammer (necessary for this project) at the beginning stage of forging spoons. When I first began creating jewelry for my livelihood, I wondered how else these hammers could be used. The weight of the hammer (24 oz.) gives a very direct specific force and movement when it impacts the silver. The three-dimensional form of these earrings naturally occurs with repeated hammering and stretching of the metal. Several of my designs, including the ginkgo earrings, have evolved from adapting the silversmithing techniques to a smaller scale. One of the beauties of this ginkgo fan project is that no annealing is required. The desired result is achieved through only one major round of forging. For those of you familiar with working in sterling silver, this means no fire scale!

As you proceed, I would encourage you to pay attention to the movement of the metal that occurs with the hammer blows, and visualize and design additional pieces from your own observations. Working in the metal directly is a great way to explore the creative process.

STEP 1. Preparing the tools.
Check the angled head of the forging hammer for any rough areas. Refinish by hand, if necessary, sanding off any pits or rust. Be sure to round off slightly any sharpness on the corners to help prevent marring of the silver while forging. Finish the hammer face by using crocus cloth. For a nicely polished surface, firmly hold the hammer face against a muslin buffing wheel using bobbing compound.

STEP 2.
Prepare the flat steel surface of the stake or anvil in a similar manner to STEP 1, if necessary. Wipe clean both the hammer face and the stake with a soft, dry cloth, removing any dirt residue. When forging, it is best to use a stake that is stabilized in a tree stump or held firmly in a vise.

Caution: You may use a flat steel bench block, but be very careful of the possible traveling on the bench top.

STEP 3.
Prepare a small wooden punch from an approx. 3″ length of a 1/2″ wooden dowel. Taper one end to a nicely rounded shape with a wood rasp or coarse file. Lightly sand with at piece of coarse sandpaper. This tool will be used when needed as a non-marring punch. Another option is to round slightly the pointed end of a horn mallet.

STEP 4. Preparing the sterling silver disc.
Divide the 22-gauge, 1 3/4″ sterling silver disc into quarters by marking with a ruler and the Sharpie marker.

Note: A single disc will make 2 pairs of ginkgo fan earrings. Any different starting disc size will produce similar results. However, working with 22-gauge sterling silver will produce a good wearable result.

STEP 5. Beginning the forged ginkgo.
Hold the disc firmly and begin forging. Wear a glove to protect your hand from the vibration of hammering. To produce the desired results, hold the hammer face parallel to the flat stake. The initial hammer blows should hit the 2 outer lines of one of the quarter sections. Fill in the center portion of the first fan section. The hammer will move from the top line to center, then from the bottom line up to the center. While working, keep the hammer face steady at the center point of the fan, moving the silver disc back and forth in a circular manner. This allows the outer edge of the forging hammer to stretch the silver more dramatically towards the outer edge of the fan. Once again, be sure to hold the hammer so that the blows are level and not favoring one side. The level forging causes nice, even lines in the forming process. Do not be overly concerned with misplaced hammer blows – they can be corrected in future rounds of the process.

STEP 6.
Rotate the disc with the same side facing up to position opposite the marked triangle shape in preparation for the next round of forging, as shown. Hammering only within the lines, repeat STEP 5. Note how a natural curve is beginning to form on the smooth areas.

Hint: When forging or working the metal by hammering keep your arm close to your body and, rather than forcing the blow of the hammer, just allow the weight of the hammer to do the work. This steady, almost effortless, method creates a productive result and is less fatiguing. When done correctly, the hammer blows occur in the same position in relation to the stake. The hand holding the silver repositions the metal to control the location of the subsequent blows.

It is helpful to learn to listen for the clear sound of the hammer when it connects properly to the surface of the silver being worked, hitting it against the surface of the stake. This sound indicates a correct impact. When properly done, there will be no marring of the steel surface or the hammer face.

STEP 7. Forging the reverse side of the disc.
Flip over the disc and apply the next 2 rounds of forging to the reverse side of the disc. If necessary, flatten the disc by tapping down the center of the disc with the wooden punch made on STEP 3 or a similar non-marring tool.

STEP 8.
Using the forging hammer, gently flatten the silver with the weight of the hammer, bringing the metal in closer contact with the stake before forging. This allows better control of the hammer blows and more productive results. Continue with the forging of one of the remaining smooth fan sections as described in STEP 5.

STEP 9.
Staying on the reverse side of the disc, repeat STEP 8, working the last remaining smooth fan area. This will complete one full round of forging the silver disc. Check the entire disc to make sure you have accomplished an equal working of the metal, then make any necessary corrections.

Note: The stress and stretching of the silver disc through the forging process creates natural curves in the metal that can be expanded in future rounds of hammering.

STEP 10. Cutting the disc to make fan shapes.
By using either a pair of metal shears or a jeweler’s saw, cut the disc in half, then into quarters. In guiding the shears to follow the line, it is easier to cut from the outside perimeter to the center point of the fan. Follow the original marked lines (STEP 4), even if the shape is irregular. The irregularities will be corrected later. The result should be 2 pairs of forged fan shapes.

Caution: To prevent injury when working with the fan shapes, take time to slightly round off the points of the fan with a flat file. Also, remove any sharpness on the cut edges by using an emery stick (as pictured) or a needle file.

STEP 11. Proceeding with one pair of fan shapes.
By working one pair of the fan shapes at a time, it is possible to produce a very similar result. Hold the pair of fans on top of each other to match the size. If one side is noticeably larger than the other, mark the larger piece with the pen and cut to correct the size. In trimming the fan shape, repeat the procedure given in STEP 10 for rounding the points and removing sharpness, if necessary.

Before proceeding with the next round of forging, wipe the face of the hammer and the stake with the clean cloth. This will prevent hammering dirt into the earrings.

STEP 12.
The next round of hammering will further stretch and give dimension to the fan by utilizing the natural curves from the original rounds of forging. Begin this round by focusing the hammer blows in the marked sections, as shown. (It is not necessary to actually mark your silver. The markings are for explanation only.) In this stage, it is best to avoid hitting the top point of the fan and concentrate the forging on the outer third of the fan shape. Carefully placing the hammer blows will emphasize the stretching of the silver on the outer portion and create a fuller fan shape.

STEP 13.
Work both fans, one after the other, to provide an equal treatment of the metal. By repeatedly placing the fans on top of each other, it is possible to determine where to direct the forging to reshape or fine-tune the curves to fit. Be sure to work both sides of the disc as necessary.

STEP 14.
When you are satisfied with the final shape, proceed to file and sand the edges. As a personal preference, I filed the sides and left the slightly irregular forged outer edge of the fan shape untouched.

Note: Matching the earrings is a personal choice; certainly, an irregular result is a valid aesthetic choice. For the sake of refining the technique, this project produces a matched pair of fans.

STEP 15. Drilling the hole.
Mark the point for drilling the hole with a center punch as shown. This step prevents the drill from dancing around the metal and drilling somewhere unexpected!

STEP 16.
Use a drill diameter that is a slightly larger gauge than the ear wire to allow for mobility of movement of the earring. For 19- or 20-gauge wire, a #60 drill works very well. Lubricate the drill with beeswax or a commercial lubricant, then the drill the hole using the flexible-shaft machine or hand drill.

STEP 17.
Use a fine pumice wheel on the flexible-shaft machine to remove the burr left by the drilling. (A small paper worked by hand will also do the job.)

STEP 18. Preparing the ear wires.
Shape the loop of the French ear wires to an appropriate size to hold the earring. The ear wires will be attached after the first stage of final polishing.

STEP 19. Beginning the final polish steps.
A work of caution: Have a healthy respect for the polishing motor. Always tie back long hair, and wear eye protection and a dust mask. It is very important to be fully conscious and not distracted by one’s surroundings or fatigue. If the machine ever “grabs” a piece, be sure to let go. Also, be sure to turn off the motor before retrieving the jewelry. The jewelry will generally survive; the priority is to keep the fingers and hands from getting injured.

Using a muslin buffing wheel with bobbing (or similar cutting) compound, polish the edges of each fan. Do a quick buffing of the body of the fan, being careful not to use too much pressure and thereby removing the texture of the hammer blows. Leaving some textural lines gives the earring a feeling of an actual ginkgo leaf.

Hint: A great way to hold an earring or similarly small object while buffing is to open up a metal paper clip or short bent piece of wire and slide the earring on. Use the wire to hold the earring in position, supporting the piece with your fingers.

STEP 20. Polishing & attaching the ear wires.
Polish the ends of the ear wires that will go through the ear using the bobbing compound. This is a nice touch that removes sharpness and makes the earring more comfortable. Wash off any residue of the bobbing compound before proceeding.

To add the ear wires to the earrings, open the loop in opposite directions, using 2 pairs of pliers, then close the loop by bringing it back and by gently “walking” the loop back and forth, creating a very close-fitting connection.

STEP 21. High-polished finish.
White Diamonds is a polishing compound that works very well for silver. Be sure to use a separate buffing wheel for each different compound. Polish the earrings completely and wash off any compound residue. If you want a high polish, the earrings are finished! If you want a matte finish, proceed to the next step.

STEP 22. Matte finish.
There are several ways of achieving a matte finish. This method, which works well for many applications, uses a 3″ 3-ply, fine-grade satin finish buff. Hold the earring in a position to brush gently the surface in a vertical direction. Continue buffing in a consistent direction to create a uniform matte texture on both the front and back.

Using a small, soft, stitched buffing wheel with White Diamond compound, barely touch the surface of the matte finish. Then, by adding more pressure on the buff, continue focusing on the edges only. The result is a very subtle contrast of the matte finish with the highly polished contrasting edge. It also enhances the irregular quality of the bottom forged edges of the earrings.

Clean in the ultrasonic cleaner or wash with a soft bristle brush. If you are not satisfied with the results, return to the bobbing compound polishing, then jump to STEP 18. Don’t hesitate to try again.

Now that the first pair is complete, don’t forget to return and finish the second pair!

Variations:
I encourage you to explore new variations of this technique using your own designs. Two variations that I have utilized with my ginkgo fan earrings: creating a larger earring using the disc halves, rather than cutting them into quarters, or preparing the disc with keum-boo, fusing 24k gold foil to the prepared surface of the sterling silver. The finished work may be oxidized, creating a dramatic contrast, or given a softer affect by the matte finish technique.

Lapidary Journal November 2000

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